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I’m not 100% sure. I have never used the recalibration mode on this type of washer. Sorry, I can’t be of more help! Common issues are suspension, center bearing leaks/rust, and the occasional cracked stator.

Sounds like an airflow problem. For some reason the blower is not drawing through the drum well. To the burner this is just like a clogged duct. Check all the air seals for your drum, blower housing, etc. anywhere air can escape the drum apart from where it should be going inside the left back air vent and out the right back air vent, through your lint trap. Hope that helps! Good luck!

@@applianceassistant awesome will do thank you I’m going to check out it blows out the vent well that’s what had me going nuts

Love it!!!

You can figure it out! I believe in you!

Usually 5-10 minutes.

I have noticed that on some of the new units. Lame!! It will probably require getting the unit into a diagnostic mode through the main interface. If you can find the service manual for your model it will probably tell you how to test the functionality.

There should be a resistance value on the igniter, not open. Hope that helps some. Good luck!

Bummer! The newer units are pretty complicated. Try the unplug and thaw. Possibly a 10 minute unplug to reset the control board, if there is no signs of frost build up. Good luck!

Sir, I u unplug it at least 24 hour. But after two days fridge compart and freezer compartment temperature go down 14 'C . And after restart it took 3 to 5 hour to start cooling but later on problem still persists 😢😢

If u say so I can send u pics.. glad to see ur response

If all the fans are working it sounds like you may have a sealed system problem. Not really a DIY repair, fair amount of knowledge and specialty tools are needed. Check the interior fans and make sure the lower condenser coil is clean. That’s about the best you can do before calling for some help. Good luck!

Hahaha! Glad it helped! 😁

That’s a tough question without some context. I would need the model number and error to have any chance of answering.

It could be a coolant flow restriction. I would advise watching it for a while when it’s actually cooling, you should see frost start to accumulate over the entire coil. If not it’s an expensive sealed system repair. Fingers crossed 🤞🏼 If the coil is frosting evenly, I would replace the defrost thermistor sensor, and look for air leaks into the compartment from the room.

@@applianceassistant everything looks good as far as no air leaks, not to mention it just started this all of a sudden. From videos and reading it seams like the defroster is staying on and not letting it frost over to cool which is why I was looking towards the bi metal thermostat

If that’s the case, you may want to check the power supply coming from the control board to the defrost circuit. It should not be constant, only temporary when a defrost cycle is being performed. The bi-metal is more of a safety than a control. If the defrost relay on the control is always closed, the control would need to be replaced.

@@applianceassistant I’ll check again, it may not be on constant because there was ice forming in the drain where the defroster dips into the drain hole. I’ll go over all of it again, the bi metal was a cheap part so I don’t mind changing it anyway. Thanks for the info

No problem! Best of luck!

Thanks for sharing your experience! That is strange on the motor test. Maybe there was bad contact from the motor to the test points L&M

Glad it was helpful!

Most of this kind of thing is replace the damaged component. There’s not much you can do to repair damaged enamel given the heat tolerance requirements. That I’m aware of. If you figure something out I would love to know about it!

If your ice maker is like this one or a basic Frigidaire model the front cover is just a friction hold. Just grab that thing and pull with conviction. Or you can use a flat head screwdriver and leverage from the small notch that’s usually on the bottom edge. If it keeps leaking after adjustment you probably need to replace the water valve. Good luck!

Thank you for your comment! It would be best to use the green ground screw. The short black wire strip length was factory. That dishwasher is still working, no problems yet.

A lot of models use springs and cables to balance the door. Look up a kit by your model number, and you should be in business.

Sounds like the coils again. Not common having parts fail that quick but not impossible. I would start there. Good luck!

Thankyou

Some models break power to the ice maker at the refrigerator door switch. I would suggest hunting down where you are loosing power.

Thank you! Glad it was helpful!

Can you see the igniter glow? Many of the new ones are more challenging to make that determination.

@@applianceassistant no, it doesn’t glow up, and I checked the coils and were good

@@riovili​​⁠if the igniter is not glowing, it’s not the coils. It could be the igniter itself, or a power supply problem like the thermal fuse, control, timer, etc.

I tested the igniter and it gave me 007. Is that ok?

I’m not 100% sure what that reading means, it depends on the meter setting to interpret the value. Genuinely speaking with a dryer igniter, if you get a reading at all it’s not broken and likely not the problem.

The smaller of the two pumps is the drain pump. So probably the drain pump.

Thank you for your reply! Do you know how I can select the drain function so I can see if that is what is making the noise? As it’s running through its cycles I’m not sure What function is currently on.

@@bob-cd1lvon most Frigidaire dishwashers holding the start button for 3 seconds after a cycle has begun will cancel the cycle and run the drain pump for a short time.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for taking the time to comment!

Yea, that was probably a bit ambitious for this video. 😊 If you’re going to fix appliances as a profession, absolutely required to know. But for most DIY repairs, wire diagram understanding is not super important. I hope it helps with whatever you’re working on!

@@applianceassistant It turned out to be the thermal fuse. Thanks!👍🏻

That’s a good question! Not 100% on this, but I’m thinking vaseline would work.

Wonderful! Thanks for taking the time to leave your comment! It’s always a good boost to see feedback like this!

The high limit thermostat is probably shutting off the burner. Check your home duct and dryer ducting for air flow restrictions. That would be the most likely cause anyway. Good luck!

There isn’t anything official that I’ve heard of or tried, but if you can figure something out that works I would love to hear about it. Solder wouldn’t work because of the heat involved.